10-minute read
Introduction
Ageing is not a skincare failure. It is part of being alive—and our skin changes with us. Fine lines become more visible, texture and pigmentation may change, and skin that once felt comfortable with very little attention may need a different approach.
Healthy ageing is not about reversing the clock. It is about supporting skin function, protecting against avoidable damage, and enjoying who we are now. At Azurlis™, we call that Ageing Presently.
Botanical skincare can contribute to this approach, but not simply because an ingredient comes from a plant. What matters is its chemistry, the evidence for its use, its concentration and stability, and—crucially—how it works within the finished formulation. Nature provides interesting ingredients. Good formulation makes them useful.
In this article we cover:
1. Understanding How Our Skin Changes with Age
2. Botanical Oils: Valuable Lipids not Bottled Water
3. Antioxidants: Promising Chemistry, Realistic Expectations
4. The 15% Vitamin C Myth: One Percentage is not a Skincare Strategy
5. Supporting the Skin Barrier: Think Formulation, Not Fashion
6. Bakuchiol: Encouraging Evidence Without the Fairy Tale
7. Sensitive Skin: Natural Does Not Automatically Mean Gentle
8. Hydration Can Improve Appearance… But Not Erase Structure
9. Why Starting Earlier Can Help… Without Promising Ageless Skin
10. A Simple Routine Built Around Your Skin
11. Choosing Botanical Skincare That Earns Your Trust
12. Ageing Presently: Care Without a Battle Against Time
Frequently Asked Questions
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1. Understanding How Our Skin Changes with Age
Skin ageing is not simply a matter of developing wrinkles or losing moisture. It involves gradual changes in cellular activity, tissue structure, metabolism and the communication between skin cells.
Two overlapping processes contribute to these changes: intrinsic ageing, influenced by genetics and the passage of time, and extrinsic ageing, associated with environmental exposures, particularly ultraviolet radiation [1].
Understanding what happens beneath the skin's surface helps explain why thoughtful skincare can be beneficial—and why no cosmetic formulation can stop the biological ageing process.
Collagen, Fibroblasts and the Extracellular Matrix
Much of the skin's structural strength comes from the extracellular matrix of the dermis, particularly its collagen fibres.
Fibroblasts are cells responsible for producing and maintaining components of this matrix. Their activity depends partly on their interactions with the surrounding collagen network.
As we age, collagen becomes increasingly fragmented. Enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which participate in normal tissue remodelling, contribute to this degradation.
When the collagen network loses its structural integrity, fibroblasts experience altered mechanical signals. This can reduce collagen production and increase the activity of collagen-degrading enzymes, reinforcing changes in the dermal matrix. [2]
In other words, skin ageing involves changes not only to collagen itself, but also to the environment in which collagen-producing cells function.
Cellular Senescence and Inflammation
Some ageing or damaged cells enter a state known as cellular senescence, in which they stop dividing but remain metabolically active.
Certain senescent cells release inflammatory signalling molecules, enzymes and other substances collectively described as the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP).
These signals can influence neighbouring cells and tissue function. Their accumulation is one of several mechanisms associated with age-related changes in the skin.
However, senescence is not entirely harmful. It also plays roles in normal biological processes, including wound healing and tumour suppression.
The relationship between senescence and skin ageing is therefore more complex than simply removing so-called ageing cells.
Glycation and Changes in Skin Proteins
Another process associated with ageing is glycation.
This involves reactions between sugars or their derivatives and proteins, which can eventually produce advanced glycation end-products (AGEs).
Some AGEs form cross-links within long-lived structural proteins such as collagen. Their accumulation can contribute to increased tissue stiffness and reduced flexibility.
These changes occur alongside other processes, including oxidative stress, inflammation and alterations in cellular metabolism.
Hormonal Changes and Menopause
Skin ageing is also influenced by hormones.
During perimenopause and menopause, changing and declining oestrogen levels can affect collagen metabolism, skin hydration, thickness and barrier function [3].
The extent and timing of these changes vary considerably between individuals. Not everyone experiences these changes in the same way or at the same age. [4]
For some women, increased dryness, discomfort or changes in skin texture become particularly noticeable during this period.
Understanding these changes can help guide skincare choices towards appropriate hydration, moisturising support and ingredients suited to the skin's evolving needs.
This is why there is no single “mature skin” formula, and no serum that can reverse the biology of ageing.
The useful question is not “How do I stop ageing?” but “What does my skin need at this stage?”
What Does this Mean for Skincare?
The important distinction is between supporting skin function, improving appearance and reversing biological ageing.
Consistent moisturising can improve hydration and comfort. Appropriate ingredients may help improve the appearance of uneven tone, fine lines or rough texture. Daily sun protection can reduce avoidable UV-related damage.
These are worthwhile benefits.
But improving how skin looks and feels does not mean that the underlying biological processes of ageing have been reversed.
At Azurlis™, we believe understanding these differences helps people make better skincare decisions, without unrealistic expectations or pressure to look younger.
Ageing is part of living.
Caring for our skin is one way of enjoying that life presently… and I can totally say… Skin ageing is biology, not a problem to be cured!
2. Botanical Oils: Valuable Lipids, not Bottled Water
Plant oils can make skin feel softer and more comfortable.
Their fatty-acid profiles, wax esters and other components influence their texture and emollient properties, including their ability to help reduce moisture loss. However, oils are not interchangeable, nor are they substitutes for water-based hydration and humectants when addressing dehydrated skin.
Jojoba is notable for its liquid wax esters; macadamia nut and apricot kernel oils have different lipid profiles and sensory properties. These characteristics can guide a formulator's choices. Yet saying that an oil “nourishes” skin tells us very little unless we explain what it contributes.
Humectants, such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, help bind water; emollients improve feel and flexibility; suitable occlusive ingredients can reduce water loss. A carefully designed emulsion can combine these functions. The balance matters more than an impressive list of botanical names.
A useful formulation is not a competition to fit the most oils into a bottle. It is a decision about what the skin needs—and how to deliver it.
3. Antioxidants: Promising Chemistry, Realistic Expectations
UV exposure, pollution and normal cellular metabolism can contribute to oxidative stress. Plants contain compounds with antioxidant activity, including certain polyphenols found in green tea. But a laboratory result showing antioxidant activity is not automatically proof that a finished skincare product prevents visible ageing in people.
The ingredient must remain stable, be present at an appropriate level, and reach the relevant site in a usable form. Human clinical evidence matters. Antioxidants may complement a routine, but they do not replace broad-spectrum sunscreen.
This distinction becomes especially important when discussing Vitamin C.
4. The 15% Vitamin C Myth: One Percentage is Not a Skincare Strategy
Social media often presents “15% vitamin C” as though the number alone guarantees results. It does not. First ask: 15% of which form of vitamin C?
L-ascorbic acid is the most extensively studied topical form, but its stability and delivery can be challenging. Other forms—including oil-soluble tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate)—have different formulation requirements and evidence bases. Percentages across different chemical forms cannot be compared as though they were identical ingredients. [5]
Vitamin C may contribute to antioxidant protection and the appearance of uneven tone in appropriately formulated products. It is not a complete skincare routine, and it does not reverse skin age. Nor does a higher advertised percentage necessarily mean a better product for every person.
At Azurlis™, THD ascorbate is one component of selected formulations, used alongside other ingredients with complementary purposes. The point is not to make one ingredient the hero of every skin concern. Skin is more complicated—and, frankly, rather more interesting—than that.
5. Supporting The Skin Barrier: Think Formulation, Not Fashion
The outer skin barrier helps regulate water loss and limits entry of unwanted substances. When it is compromised, skin may feel tight, rough, flaky or uncomfortable. Gentle cleansing and appropriately formulated moisturisers can help support everyday barrier care.
Barrier lipids include ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.
Botanical oils may contribute emollience and certain fatty acids, but they are not equivalent to the skin's entire lipid system. Likewise, “contains ceramides” is not sufficient evidence that every product will repair the barrier to the same extent.
Azurlis™ uses rice-derived phytoceramides in selected formulations. Their presence is one formulation choice—not permission to claim that all phytoceramide products reproduce the skin's own lipid architecture. The complete formula and its performance remain the test.
The skin barrier is not simply a protective coating that needs replenishing with oils. It is a complex, continually renewing biological structure involving corneocytes, organised intercellular lipids, natural moisturising factors, enzymes and immune defences.
Its performance depends on the organisation and interaction of these components, not merely the quantity of lipids applied to the skin.
This is why formulation matters. A botanical oil may provide emollient benefits, while humectants help maintain water content and appropriately selected lipids can complement barrier function. But adding more oils—or combining numerous botanical extracts—does not automatically produce a better moisturiser.
The goal is to create a formulation that supports the skin's needs without unnecessarily increasing exposure to potentially irritating ingredients.
6. Bakuchiol: Encouraging Evidence Without the Fairy Tale
Bakuchiol is a purified plant-derived active, distinct from simply adding babchi seed oil. A small, 12-week randomised clinical study involving 44 enrolled participants compared 0.5% bakuchiol cream used twice daily with 0.5% retinol cream used once daily. Both groups showed improvements in assessed photoageing measures, with more scaling and stinging reported in the retinol group. [6]
That is encouraging, but it is not proof that bakuchiol and retinol are universally equivalent. The study was small, the application schedules differed, and the results cannot be transferred automatically to every product or concentration.
Azurlis™ Luminous Bakuchiol Serum combines bakuchiol with niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, THD ascorbate, hyaluronic acid and selected peptides. These ingredients have different formulation roles and evidence bases. Their presence should not be confused with clinical proof of every possible combined outcome in the finished serum.
Bakuchiol can still irritate some skin, and its safety during pregnancy has not been established sufficiently to describe it as pregnancy-safe.
7. Sensitive Skin: Natural Does Not Automatically Mean Gentle
One of the most persistent misconceptions about natural skincare is that plant-derived ingredients must be gentler than synthetic alternatives.
Unfortunately, skin biology does not recognise marketing categories.
Botanical extracts can contain dozens or even hundreds of chemical compounds. Some are beneficial in appropriately formulated products, while others may cause irritation or trigger allergic reactions in susceptible individuals.
This is particularly important when considering essential oils and botanical fragrances.
What Does the Research Tell Us?
A 2022 study published in JAMA Dermatology examined the ingredient lists of 1,651 personal care products marketed as natural or clean by three major US retailers.
The researchers found that 94.2% contained at least one ingredient identified as a potential contact allergen. [7]
This does not mean that 94.2% of these products cause allergic reactions. Rather, it demonstrates why a natural label cannot be treated as evidence of suitability for sensitive skin.
How Can Essential Oils Affect the Skin Barrier?
The outermost layer of our skin, the stratum corneum, contains cells embedded within an organised lipid matrix composed principally of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.
This structure helps limit water loss and regulate the penetration of external substances.
Certain essential oil constituents can interact with these lipids and alter their organisation. Some are used experimentally as penetration enhancers precisely because they can increase the movement of substances through the skin.
Whether this interaction causes meaningful irritation or barrier disruption depends on the particular compound, its concentration, the formulation and the condition of the skin.
Another concern is oxidation.
Fragrance constituents such as linalool and limonene can react with oxygen during storage, producing hydroperoxides that are more potent contact sensitisers than the original compounds. [8]
This helps explain why the chemical stability of a botanical ingredient matters just as much as its natural origin.
Irritation and Allergy are Not the Same Thing
Although the symptoms may look similar, irritant contact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis arise through different biological mechanisms.
Irritant contact dermatitis develops when exposure to a substance damages or disrupts the skin, producing inflammation. It does not require a pre-existing allergy and can develop after a single strong exposure or repeated milder exposures.
Allergic contact dermatitis is an immune-mediated reaction. Following sensitisation to a particular substance, subsequent exposure can activate allergen-specific T cells and produce inflammation, often with a delayed onset.
Research published in Science Immunology has also identified a pathway involving CD1a, a molecule expressed by antigen-presenting cells in the skin. Certain fragrance-associated compounds can stimulate CD1a-reactive T cells, providing further insight into how some botanical substances participate in allergic responses. [9]
The distinction matters because someone experiencing persistent irritation may need to modify their cleansing or skincare routine, whereas an established contact allergy generally requires identifying and avoiding the responsible allergen.
Dermatological patch testing can help investigate suspected allergic contact dermatitis.
Why Azurlis™ Chooses to Make Fragrance-Free Formulations
At Azurlis™, our approach is to select botanical ingredients for their intended skincare functions rather than their fragrance.
Our products contain neither added synthetic fragrances nor natural fragrances, including essential oils.
This is a deliberate formulation decision intended to avoid unnecessary fragrance exposure, particularly for people whose skin is sensitive or reactive.
Being fragrance-free does not mean that a product is allergy-proof.
Any cosmetic ingredient may be unsuitable for a particular individual. What matters is the chemistry, concentration, stability and overall formulation—not whether an ingredient is described as natural or synthetic.
8. Hydration Can Improve Appearance… But Not Erase Structure
Dehydration can make superficial lines more apparent. A well-formulated moisturiser may temporarily improve smoothness, comfort and the appearance of those lines. It cannot remove every wrinkle or restore the facial structures that change with age.
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant commonly produced by microbial fermentation for cosmetic use; it is not inherently a botanical extract. Its behaviour depends on molecular characteristics and the surrounding formulation. Used with suitable emollients and moisturising ingredients, it can be part of an effective hydration strategy.
Azurlis™ Hydrating Face & Neck Gel-Serum is intended as a lightweight hydration step, often used in the evening. The formulation combines rosehip oil and hyaluronic acid with extracts of kakadu plum, bilberry and gotu kola, each selected for its complementary skincare properties.
9. Why Starting Earlier Can Help… Without Promising Ageless Skin
You do not need to wait for menopause or visible wrinkles to care for your skin.
Establishing a consistent routine in your 30s—or whenever you begin—can help maintain comfort and hydration, while appropriate sun protection helps limit preventable UV-related damage over time.
But skincare is not an insurance policy against deeper lines, loss of firmness or hormonal change. Ageing continues. Genetics, health, environment and individual biology still matter.
During perimenopause and menopause, reassessing textures and moisturising needs may be more useful than simply adding more powerful actives. A product that suited you ten years ago may no longer be the most comfortable choice. That is adaptation, not defeat.
10. A Simple Routine Built Around Your Skin
Morning: cleanse gently if needed; use a suitable treatment or hydrating serum according to the product instructions; moisturise as required; and use broad-spectrum, water-resistant SPF 30+ sunscreen when UV protection is needed. In New Zealand, sun protection is particularly important when the UV Index reaches 3 or above. Reapply sunscreen as directed, especially outdoors. [10]
Evening: remove sunscreen and makeup thoroughly but gently; apply your chosen hydration or treatment step; and finish with a moisturiser appropriate to your skin's comfort.
For Azurlis™ users, Luminous Bakuchiol Serum is commonly positioned in the morning and Hydrating Face & Neck Gel-Serum in the evening. These are product-use choices, not universal rules about bakuchiol or hyaluronic acid.
You do not need ten products, and you certainly do not need to purchase a new miracle every week. Consistency, tolerability and sensible sun protection are better foundations than trend-chasing.
11. Choosing Botanical Skincare That Earns Your Trust
Ask what a product is intended to do, which ingredients contribute to that purpose, and whether its claims are supported. Consider preservation, packaging, stability, texture and how it feels on your skin. An impressive ingredient list is not the same as a well-designed formula.
Natural is not automatically safer than synthetic; synthetic is not automatically more effective than natural. The relevant questions concern the actual substances, their quality, their dose, the formulation and the evidence.
Azurlis™ was founded in New Zealand in 2008 by Dr Fernanda da Silva Tatley, who holds a PhD in Medical Molecular Microbiology. Our approach combines botanical ingredients, vegan formulation choices, fragrance-free skincare and a commitment to explaining what products can—and cannot—reasonably do.
12. Ageing Presently: Care Without a Battle Against Time
Healthy ageing is not an instruction to look 30 forever. Nor is accepting ageing an instruction to give up caring about how we look or feel.
We can enjoy skincare, choose products that help our skin feel comfortable, and take pleasure in looking after ourselves—without treating every line as an enemy. The aim is to keep participating in life, with curiosity, confidence and gusto.
This is not about ageing passively or gracefully. It’s about enjoying who you are, every day.
Your skin has accompanied you through countless experiences. Caring for it can be an act of appreciation, not a battle against time.
Age presently. Care thoughtfully. Live with gusto.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is botanical skincare good for ageing skin?
It can be. Appropriate formulations can support hydration, softness and barrier comfort. Botanical origin alone does not establish effectiveness.
Can botanical skincare reverse wrinkles naturally?
No cosmetic product reverses biological ageing. Some ingredients can improve the appearance of certain lines, while moisturisers can temporarily reduce the prominence of dehydration lines.
Do I need a 15% vitamin C serum?
Not necessarily. The chemical form, formulation, stability, evidence and your skin's tolerance matter more than a percentage considered in isolation.
Is botanical skincare suitable for sensitive, mature skin?
It depends on the formulation, not simply whether the ingredients are natural.
Some botanical extracts and plant-derived fragrance compounds contain substances capable of causing skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis. This is particularly relevant to sensitive skin or skin with a compromised barrier.
Importantly, the presence of a potential allergen does not mean everyone will react to it. Individual susceptibility, ingredient concentration and exposure all matter.
This is one reason Azurlis™ has chosen to formulate an entirely fragrance-free skincare range. We use neither synthetic fragrances nor natural fragrances, including essential oils.
Our approach is to select botanical ingredients for their intended skincare functions, rather than their scent, while recognising that no skincare formulation can guarantee freedom from irritation or allergic reactions.
Does natural fragrance count as fragrance?
Yes. Essential oils and other naturally sourced aromatic ingredients can contain fragrance allergens. Fragrance-free means more than avoiding synthetic perfume.
What changes around menopause?
Hormonal shifts can affect skin hydration, structure and comfort, although experiences vary. Reassessing your routine is often more useful than following an age-based product rule.
How long before I notice a difference?
Softness and hydration may improve relatively quickly; visible changes in tone or fine lines can take weeks or months, depending on the product, outcome and individual skin. Results are not guaranteed.
Notes & References
[1] Zargaran D, et al. Facial skin ageing: Key concepts and overview of processes. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2022. DOI: 10.1111/ics.12779
[2] Cole MA, Quan T, Voorhees JJ, Fisher GJ. Extracellular matrix regulation of fibroblast function: redefining our perspective on skin aging. Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling. 2018.
[3] Böhm M, et al. Endocrine Controls of Skin Aging. Endocrine Reviews. 2025. DOI: 10.1210/endrev/bnae034
[4] Managing Menopausal Skin Changes: A Narrative Review of Skin Quality Changes, Their Aesthetic Impact, and the Actual Role of Hormone Replacement Therapy in Improvement. 2025. PubMed PMID: 40847905. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12374573/ . Note: a narrative review; it supports discussion of hormone-associated changes, not predictions for every individual.
[5] Clinical Applications of Vitamin C in Dermatology: A Systematic Review. 2026. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC13588479/ . Note: clinical evidence varies substantially by vitamin C form and delivery system; do not equate percentages across derivatives.
[6] Dhaliwal S et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019;180:289–296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/ . Note: small 12-week trial with different dosing schedules; results do not establish equivalence across all products.
[7] Young PA, Gui H, Bae GH. Prevalence of Contact Allergens in Natural Skin Care Products From US Commercial Retailers. JAMA Dermatology. 2022. DOI: 10.1001/jamadermatol.2022.3180.
[8] Coulson, I. DermNet. Contact allergy to hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool. October 1, 2021.
[9] Nicolai S, et al. Human T cell response to CD1a and contact dermatitis allergens in botanical extracts and commercial skin care products. Science Immunology. 2020. DOI: 10.1126/sciimmunol.aax5430.
[10] Health New Zealand. Be Sun Smart. https://www.healthnz.govt.nz/health-topics/keeping-healthy/healthy-homes-environments/water-activities/sun-safety/sun-smart . Note: guidance on broad-spectrum SPF 30+ and complementary sun protection.
