Peptides in Skincare: What the Science Really Says

 

5 minute read

 

A Clear, No-hype Guide for Interested Skincare Lovers

 

Peptides are everywhere in skincare right now — serums, moisturisers, eye creams, you name it. Besides, there is a huge global interest in the therapeutic applications of peptides with some of these uses shown in the figure below.

 

 

But what do they actually do in skincare? And what does real, unbiased research say beyond the marketing buzz?

 

 

Here’s a simple breakdown, so you can understand the facts without the fluff.

 

What Are Peptides & How Do They Work?

 

Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the small building blocks that form bigger proteins like collagen and elastin. These proteins help keep skin firm, smooth, and resilient.

In skincare, peptides act like gentle messengers, nudging your skin to repair, renew, and stay strong.

It’s one reason they’ve become such a talked-about ingredient. But there’s something most people don’t know:

Many of the studies praising peptides are funded by the companies that make them. So the results may sound impressive… but they’re not independent.

At Azurlis™, we don’t chase hype.

We grow by earning trust — choosing ingredients for how they naturally work together, and relying on independent testing, not the claims of the people selling the raw materials.

Independent research simply means the study was run by people who don’t make the ingredient and don’t profit from the outcome. Their job is to test, measure, and report the truth.

So, we looked directly at credible, independent science to understand what peptides can actually do for your skin.

 

What Does Unbiased Science Tell Us?

 

Independent studies on peptides are limited, but here’s what the most reliable research shows.

We’re focusing on three peptides listed below because they represent different helpful actions in the skin that are summarised in the diagram.

 

Three Key Peptides:

 

• Acetyl hexapeptide-3 — helps relax micro-tension (useful for expression lines)
• Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 — supports the repair of structural proteins like collagen
• Decapeptide-12 — helps regulate pigment production (useful for dark spots)

 

What the Studies Found

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 & Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
A university-run clinical trial found these peptides produced small improvements in elasticity and hydration after eight weeks.
The results were real but subtle — and well-tolerated.

Decapeptide-12
In an independent pigmentation study, a cream containing this peptide gradually lightened dark patches (melasma) over sixteen weeks.

 

 

The Bottom Line

 

These results are encouraging, but not dramatic. Peptides deliver gentle progress, not overnight change.

 

A Few Things the Studies Don’t Tell You

1. Ingredients Interactions in a Formulation

 

• • Peptides in studies are never tested alone.
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  • Other ingredients play a role and can affect how peptides work.
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  • They’re part of formulas containing other beneficial ingredients — things like hyaluronic acid, rosehip oil, bakuchiol, camellia oil, green tea, calendula, or antioxidants.
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  • This makes it hard to know whether improvements came from the peptides alone, from the rest of the formulation, or from the ingredient combination.
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  • In science, this challenge is called a confounding factor.

 

2. Delivery Matters More Than Concentration

 

• • Peptides are relatively large molecules, so they need thoughtful formulation or delivery systems to reach deeper skin layers.
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  • A clever, well-designed base often makes more difference than simply adding a high percentage of peptides.

So… Are Peptides Worth It?

Yes — as long as expectations are realistic.

Peptides won’t replace SPF, retinoids, bakuchiol or any other actives.

But they do support the foundation of healthy, hydrated, resilient skin.

Independent studies show they offer:

• gentle, gradual improvements
• good compatibility with other ingredients
• good tolerance, even for sensitive skin
• benefits that build continuously over time, but like all approaches, consistency and perseverance is necessary.

At Azurlis™, we see peptides as supportive partners in your skincare routine — not miracle workers or quick fixes.

Nourish your skin’s natural systems consistently, keep things simple, and your skin will thrive in its own time.

If you’d like help choosing peptides that fit your skin’s needs, just get in touch — we’re always here to guide you.

Book a Free 30 minutes Consultation with Dr Fernanda.