10 minute read

In a previous article I discussed how moisturisers work on your skin and the 3 main groups of ingredients that all good moisturisers must contain, namely the Occlusives, the Humectants and the Emollients. At Azurlis we use plant oils as these are known for their properties that help the control of inflammation and the maintenance of a healthy skin barrier.

The fundamental reasons for these requirements revolve around the structure of our skin as shown in the diagram below for the skin to perform its function as a barrier to the environment. This is directly related to the level of skin hydration.

So, in this article I’m expanding on the consequences of an unbalanced water level in our skin, whether from medical, environmental or lifestyle reasons.

The diagram below is obviously stylized, but it nevertheless serves to illustrate our skin in cross section.

Our Skin Structure & How it Changes as we Age

In young skin the surface is smooth, but as we age the collagen and elastin structures in the dermis fall apart, so, in the illustration the pleated Purple Layer at the bottom of the epidermis becomes slack, loses the ability to support the layers above which result in “smoothing" of the Purple Layer in old skin manifesting as fine lines and wrinkles.

You’ll also notice that the light Pink Layer gets thinner and in fact it gets more fragile. So, it is easier to see the structures underneath the skin, such as venules, arterioles, tendons and other structures.

Essentially, the light Pink Layer is no longer performing as well as it should…… and neither is the rest of the skin.

Why is Skin Hydration so Important in Healthy Skin, especially in Dry and Sensitive Skin?

Let’s re-cap how our skin works to maintain the integrity of its main function – as a barrier to the external environment?

• The Light Pink top layer on the skin is the Stratum corneum, consisting of “flattened” keratinocytes that are organised like a brick wall, where each brick/keratinocyte is surrounded by "cement".
• The keratinocytes are generated in the Purple Germinal layer and as they mature, they move to the surface of the epidermis.
• In the process, they lose their nucleus, so these are often referred to as a “dead layer”… though they are not dead.
• This Light Pink layer forms an extremely important barrier to water loss and protects the remainder of the skin and muscle layers below from exposure to pathogens and other environmental hazards.
• The “cement” in-between the flattened keratinocytes is made up of various types of lipids and water. So, although the skin is a barrier to loss or gain of water, it itself is composed of between 20 – 30% water when we are well hydrated.
• The stratum corneum can absorb up to 5 - 6 times its weight in water.
• However, it is not the amount of water that is important, but rather the effect that the water has on enzymes that regulate the sloughing of the flattened keratinocytes. This is called “desquamation”.
• Without water, the flattened keratinocytes accumulate resulting in flaky skin, disorganised stratum corneum with cracks and irregular areas that can have little mounds of crusty, semi-attached dry cells that don’t slough off.
• Because these pesky dry cells remain attached to the remainder on the epidermis, the “sloughing off machinery” signals for help from the immune defence system.
• This signal for help results in increased blood flow to the area, as well as some immune factors that may lead to itchiness as they are trying to push the dry and flaky skin cells out!
• Because the skin feels itchy, we are compelled to scratch and make things worse… now there are more flakes, crusts, bumps, redness, and this can lead to cracking of the skin and risk getting infections… further compounding an already bad scenario!

How do we stop this cycle?

Of course, we moisturise, which is important, and since moisturisers contain oil, the mistaken belief is that the oil in our skin is being replaced… but it is the lack of water rather than oil, that is the culprit in dry skin.

So, the moisturisers help because they are providing a layer or barrier of occlusives (oils), emollients (oils, dense oils, waxes) and humectants (water-based ingredients), that retain the skin moisture within the skin. This is Great!

But, to really help the cycle of new keratinocytes to move from the Purple Layer to the Pink Layer, and to ensure that the necessary hydration is maintained in the skin layers, we must remove the flaky, crusty, bumpy patches on the surface of the skin.

So, in dry and sensitive skin, this must be done using an exfoliator!

However, this is not a mandate to use a “belt sander” to go down to raw skin, but rather a mechanism to help remove the flattened cells to enable to newer cells to get the enzymes in the “cellular cement” to “cut the ties” that hold the flaky cells behind.

This will lead to smooth, less inflamed skin, that is also less flushed and softer.

This is unlikely to happen overnight, but you will begin to see differences within a few days of exfoliating.

How to use the Exfoliator?

This is better done at the end of the day in your evening skincare routine.

• Ensure that your skin is properly cleansed.
• Pat dry with a damp face cloth.
• Apply the exfoliator and gently massage over the affected areas using small circular movements.
• Continue for 2 – 3 minutes.
• Wipe with a damp face cloth and repeat the circular massage movements for another 2 cycles of massage/wiping.
• Then wipe with a clean damp cloth.
• If you have a toner, apply and pat.
• Follow with a moisturiser. 

But be Gentle on Your Skin.

Choosing an Exfoliator

You can use a product of your liking, provided it has a gentle action.

At Azurlis, we recommend our TWIRL that is an extremely gently product containing jojoba wax beads that will eventually melt away with the heat released from our fingers/skin contact action.

For those that want to use home-based treatments, below are 2 options:

One as mechanical exfoliant, the other a very weak chemical peel. Both are gentle enough for dry, fragile and sensitive skin.

For easy access to these easy home based exfoliant treatments, below are some ideas taken from previous articles Ingredients from the Pantry & Garden, as well as Natural Face Peels.

Options for Toners are available in our website, but you can use your favourite toner or even a water spritzer.

Super Gentle Natural Exfoliant

Brown Rice Flour

Benefits: Brown Rice proteins are soothing, have mild antioxidant, restructuring, regenerating as well as exfoliating properties. This is particularly true of brown rice flour as it is composed of bran (the outer part of the grains – the shells), the germ and the endosperm.  

• The bran contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory as well as exfoliating properties.
• The germ contains some growth factors.
• The endosperm is the source of starch that feeds the seed to become a plant.
• In white rice only the starch component is left.

 Chamomile is calming, soothing and relaxing.

 Skin Types: All skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin are able to tolerate this natural mechanical peel.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup of freshly boiled water, cooled to body temperature
• 5 tablespoons of rice flour, preferably brown – the active ingredient
• 1 teaspoon of guar gum
• 1 tablespoon of coconut oil
• 1 heaped teaspoon of finely crushed dried chamomile flowers (from a tea bag) – an aromatic ingredient
• NB The water and gum may need to be adjusted to the desired consistency.

Super Gentle Natural Chemical Peel

Glow for Sensitive & Dry Skin - Tomato & Aloe vera

This natural facial peel alternative to a chemical peel is a Godsend for sensitive skin types to glow.

Tomatoes are a natural source of sulphur that increases the rate at which the upper layers of your skin sheds. They are also an excellent source of the carotenoids lycopene and carotenes, vitamins A and C as well as tomatine, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

These properties in the tomatoes are complemented by aloe vera that supplies plant hormones like auxins to your skin.

Both plant’s properties contribute towards accelerating replacement of the top skin layers with newly formed cells.

So, it is not surprising that these will contribute to glowing skin.

Benefits

Tomatoes work wonders to even out your skin texture, fading out dark spots and excess tan, loosening semi-attached keratinocytes, as well as contributing to vanishing any dullness.

Tomatoes also help in gently tightening your skin.

With improved cell replacement, your skin will glow!

Skin Types

This very weak natural peel is suitable for all skin types, but especially for sensitive skin types.

Ingredients

• Peel a fully ripe medium-sized tomato and puree it in a blender.
• Add 2 teaspoons of aloe vera from a leaf of the plant and blend well.
• Alternatively, if this is not practical, add either 2 tablespoon of aloe vera gel (available from health shops, pharmacies or supermarkets), or 2 teaspoons of aloe vera juice.

Application

• Apply the paste on your face and neck and leave it in place for about 30 minutes.
• Wash off with a warm damp cloth, rinse with water and pat dry.
• Your skin will look fresher, clearer, and radiantly glowing.
• Finish with a toner such as spritzed water, Azurlis Toners, or your own favourite toner, and a hydrating moisturiser from our range or your favourite.
• You can use this rejuvenating facial peel 2 times in a week to reduce skin damage and to keep your skin smooth, supple and glowing.

Questions

When should I exfoliate?

In the evening, or at the end of the day is best as you will be able to relax after the exfoliation, but there is nothing wrong to do it in the morning or whenever it suits you best.

Consider doing an exfoliation when you notice that the flakiness is beginning to return.

For those conditions such as eczema and severe dermatitis, it is best to discuss any approaches with your healthcare professional.

How often should I exfoliate?

At Azurlis, we normally suggest using TWIRL every 4 – 6 weeks, however, in skins where the flakiness, dryness roughness is substantial, start by exfoliating once a week for 4 weeks. Then, monitor how the skin responds, and you might find it to be sufficient to exfoliate monthly.

But this must be a judgment call that will be different for different people.

Should I consider a professional treatment?

This is entirely up to everyone to decide, however, if you do so, ensure that you explain to the therapist that you really would want a gentle exfoliating treatment. Besides, I would suggest avoiding any therapist’s chemical peels that are likely to be quite aggressive on sensitive skin types – reinforcing the importance of discussion the proposed treatment with your therapist.

Take Home Message

Our skin is our best barrier against environment insults.

In order for our skin function to be in tiptop condition, we are dependent on a level of hydration that enables the effective sloughing off of flattened dry keratinocytes on the top of the epidermis.

This sloughing off is necessary to enable the movement of newly created keratinocytes to move to the top of the skin to displace those that are “old and too dry”.

If the hydration levels in the keratinocytes layer is suboptimal, the “old and dry” keratinocytes remain attached on the surface of our skin, leading to dry, flaky, crusty skin that is often itchy and inflamed.

This can be repaired by mechanically removing the flaky cells using a gentle exfoliator, followed by a toner and moisturiser.

The regularity of the exfoliation is dependent on the degree of dryness, and when medical conditions such as eczema and dermatitis are suspected or present, your healthcare provided ought to be consulted before exfoliating.

But, don’t exfoliate your skin "raw"… be gentle on your skin.