10 minute read
What does Aromaceutical-Free versus Fragrance-Free mean?
In principle, Aromaceutical-Free = Fragrance-Free.
But Aromaceutical-Free is associated with natural skincare, that is not tested on animals, is paraben-free, made with organic certified botanical ingredients, in recyclable packaging.
Whereas Fragrance-Free ought to de used for mainstream skincare products. However, this convention is not consistently adhered to in marketing, and this results in confusion between the two definitions.
Since an Aromaceutical is the scientific designation for an essential oil, it follows that Aromaceutical-Free products do not contain any essential oils.
However, this does not mean that these Aromaceutical-Free products are "scent-free" as all ingredients will have a scent.
The scents are likely to be identified as those from bushes or plants in gardens or in the wild.
Why is our Aromaceutical-Free Collection being launched?
Azurlis™ Aromaceutical-Free - Fragrance-Free Collection was especially formulated for Sensitive or Fragile or Dry Skin types, without using any Essential Oils in response to the market demand for products that are even free of “what they call natural fragrances”, namely the essential oils.
- These products retain all the benefits of the ingredients selected, however, their scents are much more neutral, with more of wild bush notes that are often associated with the extracts or nutty notes characteristic of oils such as macadamia or coconut or shea butter.
- Our cream-based products such as the Refreshing Facial Cream Cleanser, Gentle Daily Moisturiser, Pink Swirl Mask, Simple Earth Mask, TWIRL Exfoliator, as well as the gel-based products, include EcoCert and Organic Certified preservatives - these have a light scent reminiscent of almonds.
- The scents in the Crystal Mist Floral Toner and Crystal Mist Herbal Toner are from hydrosols that are not essential oils, but rather derivatives from the water or steam distilling process of essential oils.
- The oil based cleanser product – Jojoba & Aloe Facial Cleanser the oil-based Serum Products - Delicate Skin Serum I-II, Loving Skin Serum do not contain any essential oils, nor preservatives, and the scents are purely a consequence of the oils used, that are derived from nuts or seeds.
We also wanted to differentiate our use of essential oils from that in other natural skincare ranges, and a huge point of difference with all Azurlis™ that contain essential oils is that we use only the concentrations that are permissible to avoid skin sensitisation.
Once again, this is aligned with our philosophy of using only what is necessary and always as little as required.
Sadly, many of the adverse effects associated with essentials are due to excessive use of neat essential oils, which should never happen. Unfortunately, there are also many people who believe that if something is good for you in small concentrations, it must be better by increasing these 10-fold. Definitely not!
There are strict regulations of the permissible levels of essential oils, which we at Azurlis™ ardently adhere to, though to allay any fears since even low concentrations may have some risk, albeit small, for the Sensitive & Dry Skin Type, we have deleted all the essential oils.
Just One Final Point on Botanical Oils in Skincare
The botanical oils in our products have a functionality, meaning that actively provide a source of fatty acids, soften, moisturise and help to hydrate the skin.
As mentioned above, the essential oils that we use are largely included for their aroma, be it refreshing, calming or relaxing.
But, bear in mind that although oils can be extracted from most plants with fruits, seeds, nuts or seeds, and the naturally approved tend to be extracted through a process referred to as cold pressed, such as for instance olive oil, not all plants that are used to extract these oils, can be used to generate essential oils.
This is because essentials are processed via distillation of components that have an aromatic character, and these molecules are totally different from the fatty acid components that make up the types of oils, such as olive oils.
What is your option if you still want to use products with essential oils?
Our Anti-Ageing and the Normal/Combination Skin Collections are absolutely suitable even for the Dry/Sensitive Skin, because we use concentrations below the sensitising levels.
So, you have options.
A Limited Time Offer to those that want to try our Aromaceutical-Free Collection
If you are in New Zealan, Australia or Hong King and would like a sample of one of these products email - info@azurlis.co.nz – by the 15th September, and request a sample of one product that you would like to try. Include your contact details, including phone number.
This will be dispatched to you by the 30th September 2024, free of charge.
Please share this article with others if you you’re in the above countries that might be interested in trying a free sample of one of the products in this Collection.
Differences between Mainstream Fragrance-Free Skincare and Natural Skincare
Fragrance-Free skincare does not contain added fragrances or perfumes as we would normally encounter in most skincare brands. Often the skincare fragrance is a trademark of the brand, perceived by the market as a unique desirable quality.
This is an interesting market paradox.
- There are those looking for sophisticated fragranced products, and this is where the mainstream brands have the edge, with very controlled and precisely manufactured synthetic fragrances that will always have a characteristic uniquely recognised fragrance. The fragrances in the big French perfumery sector are typical examples.
- Others prefer the opposite, meaning scents that we would typically associate with essential oils, as these are perceived as natural fragrances extracted from plants. These are extracted using simple methods that involve distillation, but no chemical modification of the aromatic molecules.
- Yet… others, prefer completely Fragrance-Free skincare, which seems to be motivated by 2 main reasons:
- People want to avoid the potential of allergic reactions, and/or,
- They do not like any form of scent in their skincare or personal care products.
Yet, there is a catch with the Fragrance-Free designation.
This means that understanding how a product is made Fragrance-Free is important to avoid unpleasant side effects even with the so called allergenic-free Fragrance-Free ranges.
The long and short is that even the Fragrance-Free products will have scents, because it is really difficult to manufacture products that are completely devoid of scents, since even laboratory/pharmaceutical prepared ingredients will have some form of scent owing to the chemical structure they are derived from.
This is evident when we cut through a slice of a lemon, a banana, a potato, an olive, or a sprig of rosemary, as each of these will have an immediately recognisable scent, and depending on how much of these ingredients you use in your formulation, the scents will vary in strength. So far, so good!
But there is something that most people don’t realise and that is that it is possible to process all ingredients, natural or synthetic, to deodorise them or remove their scents. Also sometimes, it is possible to “add” some ingredients to neutralise the “undesirable” scents of other ingredients. These are akin to how we use noise cancelling headphones to block the noises we don’t want to hear.
Although the deodorising processes can be “scent cancelling”, bear in mind that the original molecules that might be allergenic, could still be active.
Thus, there is never any guarantee that a Fragrance-Free product will not lead to an allergic reaction.
Are you now beginning to see why some of the market sectors have steered away from fragrances and even Fragrance-Free products in favour of the natural alternative of using essential oils?
Why are Essential Oils used in Natural Skincare?
In natural skincare using essential oils are referred to as Aromaceuticals, and in most instances these oils are used purely to add aroma or fragrance.
However, there are some exceptions where the essential oils have additional functionality such as the Tea-Tree Essential Oil use to help control bacterial flora. Some of the more exotic essential oils are known for their phytosterol contents known to be beneficial as anti-oxidant support, but this will be a topic for a future article.
At Azurlis™ we do use some essential oils as listed in each of the products in the Anti-Ageing, Normal/Combination Skin and Active/Oily Skin Collections, but at a sub-sensitising concentrations - for their aroma.
Though, none of these products contain fragrances or perfumes. Yet, essential oils or Aromaceuticals are included in these products.
In contrast, the Sensitive/Dry Skin Collection is completely devoid of essential oils, hence it is labelled as Aromaceutical-Free, and as you can now appreciate, is of course also Fragrance-Free.
Why is Fragrance and Some Chemicals Problematic in Skincare?
Skin Sensitivity and Irritation: Fragrances often contain a mix of chemicals that can irritate the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema or rosacea.
Fragrance components can cause itching, redness, and even allergic reactions.
Skin Sensitization: Extended exposure to certain fragrance components can lead to sensitization where the skin becomes increasingly reactive to those ingredients over time. This can result in chronic skin issues and discomfort.
Neutralising or Scent Cancelling of Other Ingredients: Fragrances are often added to skincare products to mask the smell of other ingredients, some of which might be unpleasant. This masking effect can make it difficult to detect if a product contains potentially harmful or irritating substances.
Increased Risk of Phototoxicity: Some fragrant compounds, particularly those derived from citrus fruits, can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, leading to a higher risk of sunburn and other sun-related skin damage.
At Azurlis™ we do not use essential oils that contain sensitising compounds, like the lovely bergamot. Instead, we only use sweet orange in the rinse-only products.
Potential for Harmful Chemicals: Fragrances can contain a cocktail of synthetic chemicals, some of which may have unknown long-term effects on health.
Certain chemicals commonly found in fragrances, such as phthalates, have been linked to hormone disruption and other health concerns.
Phthalates are often used as solvents in fragrances and other personal care products to make the scent last longer. These chemicals have been associated with interfering with the endocrine system which regulates hormones in the body.
While not all fragrances contain phthalates, the extent of the impact of other chemicals that may be present may vary depending on factors like the concentration and duration of exposure. It's one of the reasons why fragrance-free skincare products are often preferred, especially by those concerned about potential hormone-disrupting effects.
The Take Home Message
One thing is certain about skincare and skin care products – you should not assume that a product and its ingredients are safe to use because they are in the market or have been approved as a medication.
Regardless of regulations and controls, products may still contain ingredients that are potential allergens that you unknowingly may be sensitive to, and inadvertently you might develop an adverse reaction.
Our physiology and metabolism changes as we age and we may develop a sensitivity to something that never affected us in the past.
So, if you are concerned about potential side effects, try to understand as much about the products as you can.
And please do feel free to contact me to discuss an issue, ask a question or simply explore skin care.
