10 minute read
Brew Summary
Even if you have not used fermented skincare, you would most probably have heard about it, as well as its drinkable and edible cousin, “kombucha”. This has especially been targeted to improve gut health and overall metabolism, leading to benefits to the immune system, and wellness in general.
A similar trend permeates the Beauty World largely driven by the K-Beauty, or the Korean Beauty Skincare system that has used fermented ingredients over the millennia, and where the benefits are meant to be due to the smaller size of the molecules produced during fermentation making these more easily absorbed by our skin.
However, the body of evidence differs considerably from those involved in the development and manufacturing of ingredients compared to those engaged in independent research on the anti-ageing and skin improvement benefits of these ingredients.
In this article we review what’s behind the brew and its benefits.
What is Fermented Skincare?
Fermented skincare as the name indicates uses the natural process of fermentation where microorganisms like yeast, fungi or bacteria break down “substances” into simpler, smaller and enriched nutrients.
In skincare, these “substances” might be botanicals, fruits, and other natural ingredients. During fermentation, these ingredients undergo biochemical changes resulting in a rich brew of nutrients, antioxidants, enzymes that are proposed to be more easily absorbed by the skin, leading to improved skin barrier, healthier and more radiant skin.
The Market & The Trends
There is indeed an interesting and increasing global desire for anything fermented from kitchen made kombucha to sophisticated pharma design of fermented ingredients including pre- and pro-biotics to maintain, re-establish and protect our skin microbiome to increase healthier longevity.
This desire for applications of fermented ingredients in skincare has resulted in a huge increase in scientific publications from about 60 per annum in 1997 to just under 600 per annum in 2021, and continues to increase with a plethora of potential applications in development.
Curiously, it appears that these scientific publications can be split into 2 broad groups:
- Publications originating from individual organizations or from collaborations between the in-house research team of the skin care manufacturers using fermented ingredients, the biotech sector, biotech hubs, and ingredient manufacturers. These scientific reports tend to extol the virtues of the fermented ingredients.
- Publications from independent researchers in tertiary education universities and institutes that have no commercial liaison with the manufacturing sectors, appear to be much more temperate and cautious in their enthusiasm, with some demonstrating modest benefits, while others advocate for further research to fully understand the mechanisms of action and the limitations topical probiotics.
Outline of a Simplified Fermenting Pipeline including the Key Steps. Legend of components from left to right:
Ingredients Start Mix (yellow/green vessels), Temperature Control, Fermenting Process (pink vessel with rotator), Conditioning (blue vessel), Filtration (pink/yellow/blue machine) and Packaging (green/orange).
So, just because there is a tsunami of enthusiasm for fermented ingredients and influencers as well as the “ferments” sector encouraging the public to join the wave, like with everything, these products may be wonderful, though not necessarily better than other natural, organic or even synthetic skincare ranges. It is all relative.
But what is equally fascinating is the engine behind this desire for fermented ingredients. So, the public perception of the multi-targeted health benefit of kombucha and all manner of fermented ingredients stemming from “what is good for our gut is good for everything in our body including the skin”, creates a demand for new products.
This opens a lucrative opportunity for the skincare manufacturers to create novel products with unique elixirs of skin improving, modulating and anti-ageing benefits.
This in turn stimulates a huge pipeline for the biotech and ingredient manufacturers to develop new ingredients and delivery methods that are more efficient in delivering ingredients to the skin through improved bioavailability, increased antioxidant potency, and sophisticated presentation to satisfy the skincare manufacturers.
And the cycle continues like a corkscrew that is getting tighter and tighter… like a frenzy, until the new trend bubbles up. No doubt this familiar pattern is presented in so many sectors of our life… so, don’t fall into the trap of what’s the next best thing since sliced bread, because there will always be something new.
This is the nature of the drive for technological innovation in all sectors of life.
A stylised Skin Care Manufacturing Pipeline is shown below.
The Ancestry of Fermented Ingredients in Personal Care
Fermented skincare is not a recent invention, and the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Greece and Korea recognised the skin-enhancing properties of fermented ingredients, even if they did not know the mechanisms. In fact, the Macedonian Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt, was known to use fermented milk baths for radiant skin, which of course would have been rich in the mild exfoliator lactic acid.
In more recent times, the exposure of the west to Korean and Japanese skincare rituals, as well as food preparation brought to light the use of fermented ingredients such as fermented rice extract, ginseng, and green tea. These were and are renowned for their rejuvenating effects on the skin’s natural barrier.
How do Fermented Ingredients Work?
Fermentation in skincare entails the controlled breakdown of ingredients by “beneficial microorganisms", such as the types of yeast that are used in brewing or making bread or bacterial cultures that are used to make yoghurt and cheese, and even some algae.
During fermentation, these microorganisms produce enzymes and acids that help to modify and enhance the raw materials allowing the release of active nutrients with increased bioavailability. This process is supposed to enhance the efficacy of skincare products while claiming to promote the production of skin-nourishing molecules like amino acids, vitamins, antioxidants and peptides.
Because of their smaller size these molecules are claimed to more effectively reach the collagen and elastin machinery within the dermal area of the skin, which become less efficient as we age, resulting in wrinkle formation and lacklustre skin tone.
Aged Skin: Simplified diagram showing the consequence of the breakdown of collagen and elastin on ageing skin, namely the formation of wrinkles.
It is also claimed that fermentation produces probiotics and prebiotics, help to balance and normalise the skin’s microbiome, encouraging a healthy environment for optimal skin function, as well overall health.
This mix of bioavailable ingredients and pre-pro-biotics, leads to skincare formulations that are effective and nourishing for all skin types including sensitive skin.
This is viewed as a holistic approach to achieving radiant, youthful-looking skin.
Naturally, fermented ingredients can be combined with other hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, as well as other moisturising ingredients, like nut and seed oils, amongst many other ingredients.
What’s in the Secret Brew?
Key Ingredients
In products containing fermented ingredients there should be transparency on what microorganism(s) have been used to process the key fermented ingredient.
The ingredient list should include terms like “fermented” or “fermentation extract”. Also, whether the microorganism is a yeast such Saccharomyces (the brewing yeast family), or a bacterium such as Lactobacillus (daily processing), Bifidobacterium, or other.
There should also be a list of the raw materials that the microorganism processed, and a reference to any stabilization and filtration processes that the product has required.
In addition, a full list of all the ingredients should be present in order of descending concentration, meaning the most concentrated at the top, and the least at the bottom of the list.
The preservatives need to be clearly named.
Ingredients that are often not highlighted… and mostly not great in skincare
I had a good perusal through some of the products in the market and I noticed that many products do not show a full list of ingredients. Also, often there was no reference to stabilisation of ingredients nor preservation - which is alarming!
The other concerning point I noticed was that many products included multiple preservatives, often 4 to 5, and although some of these were COSMOS or EcoCert Approved, it is a rather concerning that so many preservatives are being used simultaneously. Is this because there a possibility of some unwanted growth in the product? All a bit odd!
The other concerning point was that many products contained “phenoxyethanol” that is definitely not EcoCert or COSMOS approved. It is certainly not natural, in fact it is an ethanol derivative of “phenol”, and with its big aromatic chemical structure these types of molecules tend to be associated with carcinogenesis, so why would you go to the trouble to make a “holistic” natural product, then spoil it by adding a petrochemical?
Brew for thought?
The Benefits of Fermented Skincare
Improved Absorption & Bioavailability
- One of the proposed significant advantages of fermented skincare is its ability to be more easily absorbed and consequently having superior bioavailability of key nutrients for the skin.
- This is because, as mentioned above, the fermentation process breaks down ingredients into smaller, more easily absorbed components, that will have deeper and more effective nourishing benefits.
- This increased bioavailability converts every drop of product into a potent elixir that is proposed to deliver transformative results from within the skin.
Improving the Skin Barrier
- The skin barrier is the first line of defence against environmental assaults.
- So, maintaining a healthy skin barrier is vital to vibrant, youthful-looking skin. Regardless of source of the evidence, the overall consensus is that fermented skincare is beneficial to the skin barrier by promoting “resilience from within”.
- The addition of probiotics and prebiotics derived from the fermentation process, appear to support the skin’s microbiome, leading to a balanced environment, where beneficial skin flora will thrive. So, it can be expected that a reduction in redness, sensitivity, and inflammation will lead a healthier and glowing complexion.
Likely Increased Hydration, Collagen Synthesis Enhancement and Skin Brightening
- As you have heard so often, hydration is fundamental of healthy skin, and fermented skincare by definition has a significant water component with concentrated bio-actives. This characteristic is associated with the great potential to deliver moisture and create a luminous glow.
- Fermentation also produces humectants such as hyaluronic acid and lactic acid, known for their ability to attract and retain moisture. This ensures that the skin remains plump and supple all day long.
- Also, fermented ingredients like rice extract and liquorice root extract are known for their natural skin brightening properties. These ingredients can help to reduce the intensity of dark spots and even out skin tone.
Types of Fermented Skincare Products
Fermented ingredients are used in as many skincare products as you can dream about, from toners, to moisturisers, cleansers, masks, serum products… you name it. All of these have in common the benefit to hydrate, nourish and even tone for radiant skin.
Some manufacturers claim that the results are instant… well, I’m not disputing that the skin condition and texture will improve, but I have serious doubts that it will be instant. However, by all means prove me wrong!
How to Identify Skin Care Products in the Market
Fermented skincare should be clearly labelled and as I explained earlier under Ingredients, all products need to provide details on the fermented extract and microorganism. Reputable brands will highlight their fermentation process and approach/technology.
However, if in doubt don’t rush to purchase, read about it and if you are unsure of anything, email your questions to info@azurlis.co.nz or book one of our Complimentary 30 minutes Consultations.
How to Incorporate Fermented Skin Care Products in your Skincare Routine
This is easy.
Like with any skincare routine, ensure that your skin in cleansed before applying any product. A skincare routine outline has been discussed in a previous article – link.
Consider what you want to achieve with your product as well as your skin type, especially if there is a tendency for sensitivity.
Try the product on its own, avoiding mixing with other active products, especially avoid products with the retinoids as these can potentiate the effects of the fermented bio-actives, resulting is some unpleasant skin reaction.
Finally, for anti-ageing skincare, look out for products with Lactobacillus and fermented rice-extract, as the latter is excellent to hydrate and brighten dull skin.
In fact, fermented rice-extract is an ingredient that I would consider adding to Azurlis™ skin care… Watch this space! ;-)
Application Approaches
As I have mentioned so often, like a broken record, if you want to see benefits with a product, you need to develop a routine and stick to it consistently. Haphazard, erratic schedules will not help… So, make time for your treat if this is what you set out to do.
Potential Side Effects & Precautions
Despite the fact that fermented skincare appears to beneficial in most instances, it’s wise to be mindful of the potential for side effects and to take precautions accordingly.
Bear in mind that although the skin is our barrier against environmental hazards, it is nevertheless a "semi-permeable" barrier, otherwise it would not be able to absorb water and some of the products that are applied topically.
In fact, our skin and the underlying structures such as receptors, sensors, nerves, the circulatory system, muscles and fact are depending on the skin being a "functional balance barrier". See skin diagram below.
This means that in as much fermented ingredients and the nutrients associated with these processes are likely to be better absorbed, so will any other substances in the fermented products, including the example of the preservative phenoxyethanol mentioned above, that incidentally is also a very small molecule.
So, some people might experience some sensitivity or irritation when first using fermented products into their routine, especially those that have sensitive skin or allergies to certain ingredients.
To diminish this risk, do a patch test before using the product on your face. Then, as you become more familiar and comfortable with the sensation or result, introduce new products into your regimen.
It is also important to be mindful of the risks of combining fermented skincare with other active ingredients like retinoids or exfoliants, as they may increase the likelihood of irritation.
Always follow the recommended instructions provided by the manufacturer and consult your healthcare provider if you have any concerns or experience adverse reactions.
Stylised view of a skin section showing the layers, receptors and sensors that are critical for healthy skin function.
Take Home Message
Is fermented skincare a cutting-edge approach to beauty?
I would say no, but there is certainly a significant body of research underpinning the use of fermented ingredients in skincare and future applications.
Does it work to effectively promote a healthier skin barrier?
Yes, the evidence whether excellent or modest, appears to be valid, and it does not appear that this is a passing fad. However, a lot more research is needed to qualify some of the uses and optimise ingredients to matched skin types or skin conditions.
Will fermented ingredients blow all other ingredients out of the skincare market?
No, and even though fermented ingredients are in demand at present, other ingredients and delivery approaches will appear in the future, so fermented ingredients, and skincare, are part of our armamentarium to protect our skin barrier and improve our skin condition as we mature. But it is not… and it will not, be the only ingredient type to receive attention.
Should you try fermented ingredients skincare?
Why not?
Whether you want to reduce the signs of ageing, improve your skin condition, for better hydration or youthful glow, you have nothing to lose. Life is about experiencing new scenarios, and you may find that a fermented ingredient products is exactly “what the doctor ordered” … Have fun!
