15 minute read
Recently, I ran a workshop on the amazing benefits of botanical skincare, and was surprised by the persistence of one of the participants on wanting to use retinol in her skincare routine, and why at Azurlis we did not offer retinol containing products.
I explained that retinol as an animal derived ingredient was not aligned with our philosophy so it is not used in our range, BUT, that in the development of Azurlis products with a “plant-based retinol equivalent”, such as bakuchiol was in our horizon.
In fact, our products include plant oils such as rosehip, macadamia nut, apricot, calendula, jojoba, shea butter and argan, all of which are great sources of vitamins A, (as well as B, C, D and E), noting especially that vitamin A is a form of retinol, so, you are covered by using Azurlis skincare, with “plant-derived retinol”.
Nevertheless, I was intrigued by the intensity of this person’s conviction that “only retinol” was going to be her future skin saver - as she was told by a skincare retailer.
Ironically, her skin looks great, and this was validated by her own comments as well as those of other participants who knew her. She also volunteered that although being in her 60’s, she attributed her youthful skin glow to the fact that she has used Azurlis for many years.
However, she had been persuaded by a store retailer that she would take years off her face and prevent further ageing by using retinol every day from that point on - such is the power of skincare marketing that feeds our natural desire to stay young. It is also alarming that people will buy into wanting to turn time back without fully understanding what is realistic in the context of the hype we are exposed to…
This prompted my urge to highlight what can really be achieved with retinol and the plant derived equivalent, bakuchiol, in what timelines can results be expected, and the precautions and the consequences, as after all everything has a price.
Different Types of Retinols
Of course, the usefulness of retinol type “family” of products in skincare and even in medical conditions has been intensely publicized over the last few years. However there are a few potential issues that people need to be aware of, prior to “bathing” in skincare with retinol.
Firstly, there is no question that the multi-functional properties of Retinol can improve our skin health from helping to control acne, to softening the signs of ageing. However, I would like to show you the even more marvelling properties of Bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative that has been used for thousands of years.
In Ayuveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine, bakuchiol has been used in anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-malignancy (anti-cancer), anti-oxidant, wound healing and cell repair treatments. Ironically, modern science only started understanding its benefits in the early part of the 21st century.
So, let’s start at the beginning, with retinol.
What is the Difference between Retinol and Retinoids?
If you are familiar with retinol, you would also have heard about retinoids, retinoic acid (tretinoin), retinal/retinaldehyde and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive).
The retinol chemistry reveals that it has a polyene backbone with 4 to 5 double bonds (see below), that can present in various configurations, and this accounts for the numerous forms of retinol.
Retinoids comprise a group of natural and synthetic Vitamin A analogues with a variety of derivatives that are named retinol, a mild retinoid like form that is available in products over-the-counter, and the higher strength tretonoin, that is only accessible with a prescription.
Regardless of the retinol form used, in skincare, this is converted to its active component retinoic acid.
The difference in these forms is in the number of steps needed to convert to the active form. Also, each step weakens the potency of the resulting derivative.
- Retinoids do not need to be converted as on application they work like “active retinoic acid”. There are several of these products in the market, available only on prescription, and definitely NOT to be self-medicated. Conditions for which these are used include: acne, anti-ageing, keratosis pilaris or chicken skin, and hyperpigmentation.
- Retinal/retinaldehyde and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive) are converted to the active form in one step via the enzyme retinaldehyde oxidase. This is an oxidized form of retinol that is about 10 times more potent than retinol.
- Retinol, the form that is most frequently used in skincare, requires two steps for activation to retinoic acid. This form binds to the retinoic acid receptors in our skin, converting it first to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. This is a milder form of the retinoids and although it is useful as an anti-ageing agent, it provides no benefit for active acne – which is one of the medical uses for retinoids. It is available over-the counter.
How Does Retinoic Acid Work?
Regardless of the form used, in skincare, retinol is converted to retinoic acid, the active component.
Retinoic acid causes the top layer of skin cells to proliferate faster. This means that it encourages the cells to become more mature earlier in the life cycle such that they slough off more easily. This is akin to an exfoliation process.
As the older keratinized cells slough off, this stimulates the cells in the deeper layers of the dermis (basal layers) to move upwards, giving rise to younger, healthier looking skin to replace the layers that have lost their lustre. This means that with time you will notice a change from dull skin to that that has a youthful glow.
So, as explained above this “exfoliating” process benefits both ageing and other conditions, although the strength of the retinol product used is different for each condition that is being targeted.
Essentially, this is the rejuvenating benefit that we all hear about.
Is There a Catch?
Yes!
First, results will not be instant, and most therapeutic applications (such as where retinoids are prescribed for severe acne for example) require use for at least 6 months.
Secondly, for those targeting to diminish the signs of ageing, may have to be patient as the normal skin replacing cycle of 28 days slows down to over 50 days as we age, and our skin cell layers collapse with time anyway.
Since ageing is a function of genetics, microbiome, lifestyle and environment, it is really difficult to know how long our cells will take to renew, and this has consequences.
- So, if you have got rid of old skin layers and your new ones are slow to the surface, your “skin” is much more exposed to the elements, including UV. Hence, UV-protection is required, but so is serious moisturizing because the top cell layers that were providing a “skin barrier” have now gone, with result that your new skin is much more susceptible to irritants and pathogens.
- But… it does not stop here! The sloughing of the top layers of skin is achieved by the retinoic acid causing some “irritation”. This is associated with dryness and itching, which increases the potential for sensitivity, not just to sunlight. Besides, as we are all different, some of us will be prone to a stronger reaction than others which requires us to act with caution.
And the list goes on…
- Since it will take time for the skin to adjust to the exfoliation, the increased cell turnover, sensitivity and dryness, (after all the top layer of cells is being push out), your skin condition is likely to look worse? for quite a few months. This may require several adjustments to the amount of product you are using and the frequency of application.
- Indeed, some people use the 1-2-3 retinol rule for sensitive skin or dry skin. This means that retinol is applied once a week for one week, twice a week for two weeks, three times for three weeks. Then, the product is applied every second night if there are no visible side effects. Though, such a strategy requires a discussion with the relevant healthcare professional.
- Just an aside on exposure to UV while you are using the products….ironically, retinols are highly sensitive to UV light, breaking down on exposure to sunlight. Hence, the need to stay away from the sun if you are using retinoids during the day, the alternative being using them only at nighttime.
Now, I am hoping you can start to understand why only the milder retinol forms are sold over the counter.
Interestingly, many companies that sell over-the-counter retinol options have over the years decreased the percentage of the retinol molecules in response to the market complaints about ongoing dryness, itchiness and sensitivity.
Although this appears a sensible response from the manufacturers, it has the consequence of diminishing the effectiveness of the products. Since this is happening on top of natural ageing processes, continuous adjustments need to be made.
Also, once you start, don’t stop until you have achieved your desired result or you’ll have to start again from scratch!
So, the long and the short with retinol type treatments is that if "you are not feeling some form of dryness or itchiness", it is unlikely that the products are working. Also, you continuously must monitor your skin condition and adjust.
Bakuchiol - The Marvel Plant-Based Alternative to Retinol
Touted as the best plant-based alternative to retinol, Bakuchiol is a truly amazing ingredient.
Extracted from the seeds of the humble babchi plant – Cullen corylifolium or Psoralea corylifolia - that mostly originate from China and Southern Africa.
A comprehensive review of the composition, multi-functionanility and uses of the babchi plant is discussed in detail covering the literature on the bioactive phytochemical and biological activities of P. corylifolia, with close to hundred bioactive compounds having been isolated from the seeds and fruits of this plant.
The most important compounds identified belong to coumarins, flavonoids, and meroterpenoid groups of molecules known for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and many other properties as listed below.
- Flavonoids - Flavonoids are now considered as an indispensable component in a variety of nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, medicinal and cosmetic applications. This is attributed to their anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, anti-mutagenic and anti-carcinogenic properties coupled with their capacity to modulate key cellular enzyme function.
- Meroterpinoids - Most of the meroterpenoids possess antimicrobial, cytotoxic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, enzyme inhibitory, and immunosupressive effects.
- Coumarins - These molecules have been demonstrated to have a wide spectrum of pharmacological activities, including anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant, anticancer, antibacterial, antimalarial, casein kinase-2 (CK2) inhibitory, antifungal, antiviral, Alzheimer's disease inhibition, neuroprotective, anticonvulsant, phytoalexins, ulcerogenic, and antihypertensive.
Below is one of the bakuchiol chemical representations.
Bakuchiol, or rather bakuchi or babchi oil has been used in Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine long before the development of our Modern Pharmacopeia.
Interestingly, bakuchiol is chemically unrelated to retinol, however it does have properties and functions that are like those of retinol. It has been clinically shown to lead to generation of collagen, diminish fine lines and wrinkles, decrease the size and density of skin pigmentation, increase firmness and improve the overall skin condition.
The healing benefits and pharmacological action of bakuchiol have been extensively documented including having anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties, all of which explain its potential to treat some forms of malignancies.
Furthermore, there has been longstanding clinical evidence of the effectiveness of bakuchiol as an anti-ageing treatment.
How does Bakuchiol Work for Skincare?
Although bakuchiol has retinol-like properties by modulating genes that regulate extracellular matrix production and the dermal-epidermal junction, it does this using different mechanisms to retinol.
- It helps slowing skin aging by stimulating the activity of dermal fibroblasts activity to synthesize more collagen and elastin.
- Simultaneously, bakuchiol inhibits the expression of enzymes that breakdown collagen and elastin (matrix metalloproteinases).
- Since these proteins are central to building a good scaffold to support the skin, continuous use of bakuchiol leads to considerable plumping of the dermis resulting in the decrease of the depth of wrinkles and the disappearance of fine lines.
- Also, due to its potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, it contributes to faster healing of the cells that are being renewed without generating any dryness. On the contrary, it supports the skin barrier mechanisms to retain moisture more efficiently.
- Besides, bakuchiol is not sensitive to UV light, so it can be used safely during the day.
Hence, with higher tolerability, photostability, and ability to slow down skin aging, bakuchiol can be considered a suitable plant-based alternative to retinol, that traditionally extracted from animal sources.
Furthermore, when compared with retinol, bakuchiol showed a statistically significant improvement of skin regeneration, with overall benefits to the skin surface as well as the sub-cutaneous tissue (SAT), in the figure below.
Is There a Catch?
Yes, there is always a price.
As with retinol, once you start, don’t stop or you’ll have to start again from scratch.
Though as far as we currently know, there are no other side effects, as described for the retinoids.
Nevertheless, there will be skin conditions for which retinol may be the product of choice, and a discussion with your healthcare professional is advisable before deciding on which product is best for your skin concern.
Key Botanical Oils in Azurlis’ Range
Just a few comments on Azurlis’s products and future options.
A while ago I focused on the benefits of our 2-in-1 Jojoba & Aloe Facial Cleanser, where a summary of the benefits of the key oils in this product were discussed, such us macadamia, coconut, jojoba, apricot kernel, grape seed and shea butter.
As you would have noticed in this discussion, most of these oils are loaded with antioxidants, including Vitamin A. So, they are clear “Star Ingredients” in a Skincare Routine.
These oils are very much part of our Anti-Ageing Range, as well as all our other products. A special mention goes to our star Serum Products in which the amazing Rosehip oil features prominently, because as a rich source of Vitamin A, it is crucial for collagen regeneration. Besides, as rosehip is a powerful inhibitor of an enzyme that breaks down collagen, it offers another dimension of protection.
Of course, it is a no brainer that bakuchiol will be included in our product range. So, this is something to look forward to before the end of 2024. Stay tuned!
Final Thoughts
Of course, it goes without saying that “great skin food” must be accompanied with equally nutritious and healthy food containing Vitamin A.
Stay happy, have fun, joyous company and enjoy a daily health lifestyle, in a beautiful and peaceful environment.
