5 minute read

About the time that my article on “How Many Products are Needed in our Skincare Routine”, I was asked “why don’t you make a product that is a Cleanser, a Toner, a Sunscreen, a Moisturiser, and a Serum All-in-One?”

Great question!

The rationale behind would be to have multiple functionalities in a product to simplify life and reduce costs associated with skincare products.
Interestingly, a few days later someone showed me a product that was being sold as a 5:1 moisturiser, meaning that it contained 5 active ingredients, to moisturize, hydrate and nourish the skin.

At the same time I searched the web for 5:1 and various combinations of multiple functionalities, and the results were interesting as dozens of products showed up with the 5:1 association, where sometimes the “5” was attributed either to 5 different ingredients, or to 5 different products that were packaged in a kit set, meaning that the kit included for instance separately a cleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a moisturiser and a serum.

Challenges and the Myths of Making of an All-in-One Product

First of all, to meet the functionality of a cleanser versus that of a moisturiser or an exfoliator, different categories of ingredients are needed that are not always beneficially compatible. For example, a cleanser is meant to remove cell debris, dirt and environmental pollutants and normally, the ingredients do not stay on the skin surface, though there are exceptions which I will discuss in the next section, “A Cleanser that is also a Serum”. In contrast, a moisturiser is formulated to be left on the skin, whose purpose is to provide a source of ingredients to soften, hydrate and protect the skin.

This means that you can’t cleanse and moisturise at the same time, but you can use a moisturiser as a cleanser and make up remover, although this is an expensive way to cleanse as the moisturising ingredients in the cleanser are not required to be as deeply nourishing like those in the day or night moisturising products.

Also, most cream cleansers will contain forms of ingredients called surfactants, that are what mostly commonly found in household detergents, except that those for skincare are much gentler than the detergent used to clean bench tops and floors.

Depending on the concentration of the mild surfactants in the cleansers the products contribute to the level of “foaming”. However, even non-foaming surfactants are much better at lifting dirt from the surface of the skin than the protective moisturising substances that are designed to get into the deeper parts of the skin to nourish the newly formed skin cells as well as to provide a source of antioxidants.  These antioxidants substances will help to reduce the breakdown of molecular structures that support skin suppleness, such collagen and elastin. See the stylised diagram below of our skin cross-section.

But, in reality a moisturiser also provides both a toner and a serum function. It will deliver moisture embedded in the cream and it will also serve as a serum by providing ingredients that are part of the moisturiser, and that are also used in serum products.

So, Why do we Need All the Toners and Serum Products in the Market?

Another great question!

The underlying question is what is so difficult about making an All-in-One Product like a moisturiser?

A moisturising product with ingredients to fulfil all the functionalities of being a Cleanser, a Toner, a Moisturiser, a Sunscreen and a Serum simultaneously would require quite a long list of ingredients, as well as some very complicated chemistry to ensure that the product would be stable, and that all the functionalities would be achieved. 

And, the long and the short is that, the more ingredients a product contains, proportionally the less you have of each ingredient.

Both of these impose limitations in the formulation, its potential efficacy on manufacturing. Below are some points to consider.

• Having too many ingredients in low concentrations: This is not a problem with those ingredients that only need to be in low concentrations to ensure that they are efficacious without exceeding the levels that might lead to skin sensitisation.

• Mixing too many potential sensitisers with some at high concentrations: There are numerous ingredients that fall in this category such as botanical extracts, and this is why such ingredients can be Key Ingredients without having to be the ones with highest concentration.

• Exceeding optimal concentration: In fact, it is disappointing to see skin care companies marketing products with say 10% of ingredient X, when formulators know that the optimal concentration is meant to be no more than 1%, 10-fold less. The optimal concentration has been worked out because at that level the ingredient works without the risks of reactions in most cases. But of course, there is always a possibility in a prone individual that sensitisations even with lower levels can still occur, so the ideal concentrations should not be exceeded.

• Higher concentrations of the Key Ingredients: These could also lead to the potential of interference with other Key or Base ingredients that might even cancel the combined benefits of some of the ingredients… and you have achieved nothing, as the combined benefits have been nullified.

• Including sunscreens: If sunscreen ingredients were also included, they would be components of the functionality of the cleanser, toner and serum benefits - that does not make much sense. See my point?

• Higher Concentration of Ingredients does not guarantee quick results: Also, bear in mind that just because you have a much higher concentration of a Key Ingredient, this is unlikely to speed-up the benefit you want to achieve. Remember, that we are dependent on an average cell turnover of 28 days from the time a new skin cell is formed to the point it reaches the skin surface to replace older, dry or rough skin areas.

• Differences between a Moisturiser, a Serum and a Toner:

• A Moisturiser is a good skincare allrounder that improves the skin smoothness, provides a source of nourishing and antioxidant ingredients, and helps to retain moisture content through hydration and protection against loss of moisture. This means that it contains optimal concentrations of these essential Key ingredients.

• A Serum will have less ingredients, at a higher concentration, so the few Key ingredients are present at the more effective optimal ratios. This is why these products also tend to be more expensive.

• A Toner is basically a water-based product that is best used under a moisturiser, to lock the moisture in, unless you want to use it as a cooling spritzer, in which case it will be sprayed on the surface of the moisturiser.

This means that if you really need a product to provide a good source of skin moisture, then a Moisturiser is a good ‘go to’. If you want extra moisture use a Toner or spray Water.

If you want a more concentrated form of deeply nourishing, hydrating and antioxidant skincare product to soften fine lines, pump-up wrinkles, or reduce pigmentation, then this is where a Serum takes the lead.

But... What's the Catch with the All-in-One Product?

So, it comes down to the message I have shared previously in my articles, that “There is always a catch!”

If you want to have everything in a single skincare product, All-in-One, assuming that the manufacturing cosmetic chemistry problems have been sorted, you are likely to save time with the application of the one product, but the experience its unlikely to feel as special and honouring of who you are. The results will take much longer, if at all achieved, because it is unlikely that the ingredients in the product are at the optimal concentration, anyway.

You are unlikely to save any money because of the cost of the ingredients to meet the functionalities, and the fact that you are using the product faster, means you’ll have to purchase replacements more regularly.

One last thought on the All-in-One product concept …. is not too dissimilar from producing a “Breakfast-Lunch-Dinner-All-in-One” meal, correct? Food for thought…

Where and How can a Multi-Functionality Product work?

As I have mentioned above, and as discussed is a previous article on how a Cleanser is also an excellent Serum, most oils have superb nourishing, protective, antioxidant and cleansing properties.  In particular the oils that are used in our Jojoba & Aloe Facial Cleanser either with aromaceuticals or without aromaceuticals, serve as an excellent source of cleansing, as well as being an outstanding serum.

So, general oil-only products have multiple functionalities and even though they do not add moisture to the skin in the form of water, they contribute to improving the natural skin barrier that retains the moisture, and so, they do provide a hydrating component to their functionality. Though, a important point is that you will need to apply the product regularly, preferably daily.

However, I understand that not everyone likes oils… but believe me, they are good for you and if applied correctly, your skin will not feel oily or sticky. Instead, it will feel just right, soft and supple, regardless of the skin type.

All this comes down to making time for yourself and to look after your most precious asset, your skin… Make time that is yours, regardless of how busy your schedule is. This will help to have a healthier skin, body and mind.
 

More on Product Multi-Functionality

Although having an All-in-One Product has its own limitations, there are numerous research studies showing that a multitude of ingredients can improve skin whether it is in the slowing down of signs of ageing or regulating oily, breakouts and acne issues. Cases in point include the substance – niacinamide or Vitamin B3.

This means that maybe we are finally moving towards creating products that address a variety of skin issues rather than the traditional product range for each skin type.

Some research evidence is also surfacing indicating that although Multi-Function ingredients can be used in a variety of formulations, there are differences in their potential benefits from the way the product is delivered to the skin. For instance, to achieve the best results with Vitamin B3/niacinamide this should be in a cream or lotion rather than a water-based-gel. 

Is the Concept of “Only Needing a Single Product in your Skincare Routine” Still Valid?

Yes!

By now some of you are probably thinking that I’m contradicting what I wrote on my previous article… but I’m not.

I do firmly believe that you “essentially in practice” only really need One Product, and that this is your moisturizer, but as required or desired, you can alternate the use of the moisturizer with another product.

This helps to simplify your Skincare Routine and can be implemented in the morning or at night, ensuring that the skin is protected during the day and better nourished at night, while you rest. 

Take Home Message

We are all busy and pressed by responsibilities, demands and obligations, so let’s simplify life, but realise that everything has its price.

Nevertheless, we must do what aligns with where we are at in life and what is important to us.

Not looking after our skin and expect that it will look good, is like never tending to our gardens and then moaning about the weeds…

Expecting that All-in-One will solve all our woes is also not a solution. Everything takes time, and recognising the value of this cannot be underestimated.